If you are after some serious mountain views in the North Island, you only really have a couple of options. The North Island of New Zealand isn’t as spoiled for choice like the south when it comes to alpine environments, but we do have a number of big volcano’s to help you get your alpine fix! Mt Taranaki is probably the most obvious choice, rising 2,518m straight from the sea, second only in height in the north island to Mt Ruapehu. What sets it apart is that Egmont National Park offers up some of the countries best tramping, with the Pouakai Circuit on the northern side of the mountain being recognized as the premier trail in the park. Crossing volcanic rock fields, alpine swamps, dense rain forest, and exposed ridges, the Pouakai Circuit really does offer a bit for everyone. Certainly an ‘NZ must do’!
NORTH EGMONT VISITORS CENTRE TO HOLLY HUT
Egmont National Park plays host to a number of great tramping trails but the title of premier trail in the area has to go to the 2-3 day Pouakai Circuit. Lying to the north of Mt Taranaki sits the Pouakai Range, the eroded remnants of a once great volcano. The Pouakai circuit offers moderate to advanced terrain, and offers up unsurpassed views of the mighty Mt Taranaki.
This trail has likely become so popular due to a coupe of reasons, the first being a loop trail with easy access, the second being the vast range of terrain through which the trail passes.
The route climbs high up the side of Mt Taranaki before sideling the northern aspect for a few kilometers. The first section from North Egmont visitors to Holly Hut is not technically challenging, but will get the calves burning as you ascend steeply initially, followed by constant navigation through volcanic rock fields. Continuous bolder hopping can make for slow going at times…
Day 1 on the trail should overall be quiet relaxed, we completed the hike to the 32 bunk Holly Hut (6.5km) in just under 3.5 hours, which by my usual tramping standards is very short. It did however leave plenty of time in the afternoon to relax at the very comfortably Holly Hut – time to drink coffee, play cards and and spin yarns with friends.
BELLS FALLS SIDE TRIP
When you reach Holly Hut there is a side trail that detours to the incredible Bells Falls waterfall. This has to be one of my favorite waterfalls in New Zealand so far! Nestled in a remote gorge created by the draining Ahukawakawa Swamp that sits between the Pouakai Range and Mt Taranaki, Bells Falls is a powerful sight. The Taranaki province is the wettest region in the north island, with the North Egmont visitors center recording an annual rainfall of 6,500 mm to 7,500 mm per year. With that in mind, you’re almost guaranteed a great view of the pumping Bells Falls, no matter the weather!
The track towards the waterfall from Holly Hut takes around 30 min on the down, perhaps 40 min on the up. This trail is a bit different from what you’ve trekked already, it gives you a taste of what some of the less traveled trails in Egmont National Park can offer – mud, roots, and generally narrow trails.
Whatever you do, don’t miss the chance to see this waterfall, if you make it to Holly Hut make sure you take the time to visit Bells Falls. Beautiful!
HOLLY HUT TO POUAKAI HUT
Holly Hut to Pouakai Hut may be short in distance at only 4km, but does ascend hundreds of stairs on the climb up into the Pouakai Range. It’s pinchy, sweaty, and steep. However, the landscape you pass through on this section is incredibly unique. You’ll walk through a mixture of thriving native bush, as well as fields of dead mountain cedar. It’s something you just have to see in person to really appreciate, it’s almost spooky! Once you reach Holly Hut you are welcomed with warm shelter and a pleasant view of the west coast.
POUAKAI HUT TO KAIAUAI SHELTER
Given how short the hike is from Holly Hut to Pouakai Hut, you may choose to push on further on the trail on day 2, or perhaps just enjoy your time at the hut. Either way, when you do decide to continue on, the next section of the trail takes you past the most photographed areas in the region, the Pouakai Tarn. This alpine tarn on its day perfectly mirrors the mighty Mt Taranaki in its pool. On our day unfortunately, all we got was cloud… Still, one can imagine.
Pouakai Hut to North Egmont visitors center is the obvious long day on the tramp. Not only in length (8.5km), but in terms of altitude gain. This section is non-stop up and down, and passes two summits – Maude Peak and Henry Peak. The Henry Peak climb is straight up, often requiring you to climb metal ladders on the ascent. It will definitely get the heart rate pumping…
Once you start descending from Henry Peak you start entering more advanced terrain. Wild New Zealand native forest dominated by tall Miro, Rimu Podocarps, Rata, Kamahi, and Crown Ferns. It’s an amazing part of the country, the forest alone warranting the trip. However, the change in terrain makes for slow and difficult travel. Muddy, rooty, steep trails, far removed from landscapes previously passed on the circuit.
When we decided to push though to the Kaiauai shelter, we didn’t really know what was meant by ‘shelter’… We we expecting a rock biv, but were pleasantly surprised to see a structurally sound, 3 wall shelter with enough room to sleep 4. Originally built as shelter for when the river below became impassable (before a high swing bridge was installed), now it just lays home to the occasional guest walking the Pouakai circuit or goat hunter. If shelter stays are your preference, this will seem like luxury!
KAIAUAI SHELTER TO NORTH EGMONT VISITORS CENTRE
The final stretch. Only a few km’s to go at this point, but unfortunately it’s almost all uphill. Not steep like previous parts of the trail, but relentless. You’ll wind through the bush for a couple of hours, slowing ascending your way back to civilization. By this stage you’ve seen the major sights, climbed the biggest hills, navigated the most difficult terrain, so it’s time to just enjoy the walk out. Take the time to reflect on the landscapes you’ve passed, the stories told, and memories made. The Pouakai Circuit is one to remember, a truly awesome walk in New Zealand’s extensive trail network. If you haven’t walked here before, add it to your trip list. It isn’t overly busy yet, perhaps still a little unknown, but I’m sure the crowds will start flocking to this trail in the near future. Get out and walk it before it becomes another ‘great walk’ graced with hundreds of hikers a week…
POUAKAI CIRCUIT TRACK DETAILS
Distance: 25 km
Track Type: Tramping
Time Required: 2 – 3 days
Terrain: Moderate – Advanced
Seasonal Restrictions: Sections of this track can become impassable in winter conditions due to snow and ice. Check with Egmont National Park Visitor Center for up to date track conditions.
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